Thursday, May 13, 2010

A day in Arles

Arrived in Arles late yesterday and had a "shopping" day today.
I've managed to wear out my socks (not unexpected) but also one shirt - the synthethic content must be high and it has crinkled up and fused where my backpack sits on my back - looks and feels revolting.
Googled a sports store in Arles, which didn't look too far away, but felt like almost a half-days walk to get there, not helped by the pouring rain. It was a large 'Anaconda' style outlet on the outskirts of Arles, but it was what I needed.
I got the largest size of hiking socks, but don't know European sizing, and they look a bit small to me. Time will tell!
I also needed to get a new credential - the pilgrim's passport, which you get stamped along the way to 'prove' you have made the journey. It provides an entree to the religious accommodations along the way, and some other lodgings also have a reduced rate for pilgrims.  The one I started with is almost full.  I am staying in Arles at the home of Paul and Babette, who write guides to different pilgrim paths, although they are on the road at the moment doing the legwork for a new guide.  Hugh, their house-sitter, kindly offered to come with me to find the Parish office where they issue the credential, and I was glad of the company because he speaks good French, and mine is limited to a few key words and phrases.  Arrived at the Parish Office to find a notice saying it closed at 12 on Wednesday, and it was about 12.30.   Rang the bell anyway and a lovely and most obliging lady opened up and issued a new credential, and a most impressive looking credential it is - much more so than the one I had already.  Hugh's French came in very handy as she had quite a few questions.
Hugh showed me some of the sights of Arles and then we sat in a bar and people-watched for a while.
They say Melbourne has 4 seasons in a day, but let me tell you - Arles gives it a run for its money - pouring rain, sunshine, then thunderstorms and more rain - never a dull moment.
Hugh cooked me a lovely dinner over a bottle of the local vin rouge, and it was nice to have some English conversation for a while. He is a retired architect turned painter, and showed me some work in progress and some of his portfolio.  I loved his French characters - you can get a glimpse of some at hughsart.co.uk
Hit the trail again tomorrow in my new gear - think I will cut a neat figure.

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