After nearly 4 weeks and just under 500kms I crossed into France today, and it's going to take my mind a while to switch languages. I am fine when I have a 'prepared' question to ask, but when they respond, I then lapse back to "si, grazie, e va bene" instead of "Oui, merci et d'accord".
A highlight for me today was when I was passing through Ospedaletti, and I had passed an old gent when he yelled something, but I didn't catch it, then I heard it - "Hola" - spanish for hello. He'd seen the scallop shell on the back of my pack and hailed me. I stopped and he came up and asked if I was going to Compostella. I said Yes, and out came a flood of Italian, which I couldn't catch, but it turns out his name is Giaccomo (James in Italian) and he wanted me to say a prayer for him in Compostella, and pushed two 2 Euro coins into my hand, following the old tradition of giving aid and hospitality to pilgrims. I was really touched and quickly agreed that I would certainly do that. It's these simple human contacts that mean a lot to me, and while I'm not religious, I certainly respect and admire their faith.
As I am a fair way behind schedule, and as there is a TGV from here in Menton, I have decided to take the train tomorrow to Aix-en-Provence which will put me back on my original time-frame, which I can hopefully follow a bit better in France than I could in Italy.
I will be very glad to say goodbye to those footpaths, high on the edges of the headlands, and while I'm sure my vertigo will re-appear in some of the mountainous sections, I think that will be easier than being caught between Italian traffic and a sheer drop-off.
I love Italy with all its contrasts, and this time I will especially remember the number of times I was offered help or directions, mainly by young Italian guys, especially when I was walking the Via Francigena - probably also because I was heading the 'wrong way' - they would be used to pilgrims heading south, and not see many going north.
I also got many toots from drivers going past - I like to think it was because they recognised either the Australian flag or the scallop shell (symbol of the Santiago pilgrim), and not because this bloody tourist is walking the wrong way up our highway!
Having mentioned the flag, I'm now an advocate of the "let's have our own flag school'. I have been asked dozens of times if I'm a Kiwi, and only a couple have recognised me as a Aussie.
So for now - adieu.
Friday, May 7, 2010
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